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Common Ground •
I
greatly appreciate the "Cook's Journal" that Cynthia has
begun for us in "The
Chef's Corner". This will help give all of us some insight
into the first season newness of our CSA to new members as well
as some great recipes. Cynthia, among other things like being a
new mom, is editor of a culinary magazine and is planning
on being a regular contributor to our newsletter. I find it really
wonderful to have her voice and perspective to add to our CSA newsletter.
"It" is about food. From the beginning
of man, food, as with all living things has been of ultimate importance.
For a hungry or even starving person food is the center of attention;
nothing is more important. The growing living things around us in
our everyday environment were also used for healing and staying
healthy. The lessons learned by countless generations about what
and how to prepare, to promote and maintain health have very much
been cast aside in the last 75 years. The traditions that informed
us without the need to learn the lessons over and over have become
blurred in the cultural melting pot, and very aggressively obscured
by the advertising and drive of 'the food industry' to sell products.
I suppose that there have been folks who sold food to others ever
since the practice of trade began. People who had a special skill
or access to certain ingredients to make a unique or exceptional
food certainly were able to trade with others. Science, and particularly
the science of refrigeration and preservatives have changed the
food we eat dramatically. Pickling, salt curing, smoking, sugar
curing, drying, and fermenting were the tools of millennia of humanity
for keeping food. Also, it is important to note that canning is
really a fairly recent technological advance that allowed for a
huge expansion in the type and quality of stored goods. Canning
started in jars. The process was invented in France in 1795 by Nicholas
Appert, a chef who was determined to win the prize of 12,000 francs
offered by Napoleon for a way to prevent military food supplies
from spoiling. Appert canned meats and vegetables in jars sealed
with pitch and by 1804 opened his first vacuum-packing plant. When
modern refrigeration became available it was definitely a boon,
but required much more in terms of technology than any of the previous
methods used. Before mechanical refrigeration systems were introduced,
people cooled their food with ice and snow, either found locally
or brought down from the mountains. The first cellars were holes
dug into the ground and lined with wood or straw and packed with
snow and ice: this was the only means of refrigeration for most
of history. The first known artificial refrigeration was demonstrated
by William Cullen at the University of Glasgow in 1748. However,
he did not use his discovery for any practical purpose. In 1805,
an American inventor, Oliver Evans, designed the first refrigeration
machine. Refrigerators from the late 1800s until 1929 used the toxic
gases ammonia (NH3), methyl chloride (CH3Cl), and sulfur dioxide
(SO2) as refrigerants. Several fatal accidents occurred in the 1920s
when methyl chloride leaked out of refrigerators. Three American
corporations launched collaborative research to develop a less dangerous
method of refrigeration; their efforts lead to the discovery of
Freon. In just a few years, compressor refrigerators using Freon
would became the standard for almost all home kitchens. Only decades
later, would people realize that these chlorofluorocarbons endangered
the ozone layer of the entire planet. As our understanding of Chemistry
became more sophisticated preservatives were developed and used.
Dr. Harvey Washington Wiley (1844-1930), was chief of the Bureau
of Chemistry, the FDA's predecessor, from 1883 to 1912. Wiley was
a crusader and coalition builder in support of national food and
drug regulation, which earned him the title of "Father of the
Pure Food and Drugs Act" when it became law in 1906. The Pure
Food and Drug Act of 1906 is an act "For preventing the manufacture,
sale, or transportation of adulterated or misbranded or poisonous
or deleterious foods, drugs, medicines, and liquors, and for regulating
traffic therein, and for other purposes." By it's name alone
you would think that it is self explanatory yet as with all legislation,
being subject to politicization, the words can be very misleading.
Especially so, when after a century it has bee amended and warped
and twisted by every industrial special interest looking to manipulate
the language to allow profitability versus protection of the public.
It may seem that I have wandered away from the opening topic today
but no; to me it is clear that with our CSA you are guaranteed that
you are getting 'pure food'. AS pure as nature and my farming can
make it! With helpful insight and a willingness to learn how
to cook this into delicious food we'll enjoy some of the best meals
as a community. Each person has a favorite vegetable and so allowing
for individuality that great meal may be different from table to
table. Part of the pleasure is in the very human ability to share.
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